Due to the high mountains, maritime influence and polar circulation patterns along the coastal region of Antarctica, cloud-filled skies are common.

“The areas around the coast of Antarctica are amongst the cloudiest places in the world,” according to the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) which is one of the world’s leading environmental research centers. BAS is responsible for the UK’s national scientific activities in Antarctica.

It was a thrill to capture the amazing cloud formations against the snowcovered landscape, dark waters and icy blue glaciers.

Brash ice is the accumulation of floating ice pieces caused by colliding floes or from the collapse of glacial pressure ridges.

As the ship cruised southward along the Antarctica Peninsula we experienced several bands of brash ice.

One particular memorable zodiac trip was into a small bay filled with brash ice and bergy bits.

Most of the Antarctic Continent is covered with freshwater ice from snowfall. As the snow accumulates it is compressed by its own weight forming the glaciers seen from the ship’s deck. This is the Antarctic Ice Sheet that covers the land and slowly pours off the edge of the continent. Although Antarctica can be classified as a desert because it receives only 4-6 inches of precipitation (snow) a year, the ice sheet can be up to 15,670 feet thick because of thousands of years of accumulated snow. Where glaciers or ice sheets meet the sea, the wave action, tides and warmer water temperature weaken the ice and cause pieces to break off and fall into the ocean. Icebergs, bergy bits and brash ice are everywhere.

Bergy bits are pieces of floating ice generally less than 16 feet above sea level. They are uniquely sculptured by the continual action of the water pounding the sides and underneath areas. During a zodiac cruise, we got to experience these bergy bit up close.

As you can seen icebergs are constantly moving up and down with the motions of the waves.  We captured this brief video during one of our hikes and named it the Hippo-Alligator Dance.

Listen to the wind blowing, evidence of it being difficult to stand still. Even using a monopod didn’t help too much. But we captured the movement ever so quickly.

Icebergs are large pieces of ice broken off a glacier or ice shelf and floating in open water. It protrudes more than 16 feet above sea level. However what is visible is only about 10% of the total volume of the iceberg. The largest portion is underwater and difficult to judge its massive size. Thus the expression “tip of the iceberg” referring to a problem where the majority of the issues are unseen or unknown.

Icebergs are classified by their shape — tabular or non-tabular.  Tabular icebergs have steep sides and a flat top, much like a plateau.

Non-tabular icebergs are described as:

>  Dome: An iceberg with a rounded top.
>  Pinnacle: An iceberg with one or more spires.
>  Wedge: An iceberg with a steep edge on one side and a slope on the opposite side.

The U.S. National Ice Center (NIC), established in 1995 monitors and tracks icebergs in Antarctic. They use remote sensors on polar-orbiting satellites that survey this remote region of the Earth.

Maybe camping (or I should say sleeping a few hours overnight) on the Antarctic continent sounds like a great experience, but think again. There are no toilets, it is below freezing and the wind is constantly blowing. It may even rain, snow or sleet, and the chances of having a clear night are slim. Yet, that didn’t stop the adventurous souls.

The first group experienced their camping adventure in tents but during the night the wind picked up to gale forces and it rained. They were all evacuated back to the ship in the wee hours of the morning. The next day the ships crew went to collect the eleven tents stuffed with sleeping gear to learn that three of them blew away. During mid day cruising, two were retrieved and one was lost to the sea waters. Pollution in the Antarctic!

After that first experience, sleeping on the continent was limited to sleeping bags on the snow. We decided that the warmth and coziness of our beds on the ship (not to mention the convenience of a toilet near by) was a deciding factor in staying put. Yet, if there had been the slightest possibility of seeing the Aurora Australis (the southern equivalent of the Aurora Borealis) I would have been willing to plop a sleeping bag on the ship’s top deck. We were told that if the event were a possibility we would have been woken so not to miss the display. I did learn that the Aurora Australis is more likely to be seen from Tasmania, an Australian state. Shucks!

The waters surrounding Antarctica are rich in nutrients for birds, penguins, seals and whales which feed on plankton, krill and fish. Only the adventurous souls experienced in dry-suit diving with advanced qualifications took advantage of the opportunity to explore the harsh Antarctica cold water. Of course, I have only scuba dived in warm water wetsuit, but that didn’t stop me from taking pictures of them.

A big attraction to diving in Antarctica is getting to explore under and around the icebergs. With the constantly changing ice conditions and weather,  these underwater adventures are unpredictable. The combination of sunlight , clouds and wind create an overwhelming yet challenging expedition. Those who plunged discovered naturally sculpted icebergs, witnessed the rich marine life and experienced the underwater sounds of the frozen continent.

Glaciers are large flowing packs of ice that form over many years, often centuries as snow accumulates. Crevasses and cracks are due to the continual pressure and movement downward. Glacial movement transports rock and debris in the moraines.

Glacial ice is the largest reservoir of freshwater on Earth — 99% of glacial ice is contained within vast ice sheets in the polar regions (Arctic and Antarctic), but glaciers may be found in mountain ranges of every continent except Australia.

Because glaciers are affected by long-term climate changes, e.g., precipitation, temperature, and cloud cover, changes in the glacial mass are considered among the most sensitive indicators of climate change and are a major source of variations in sea level.

Glacial calving is the sudden release of huge ice chunks breaking away. The section that falls can be classified as an iceberg, growler, bergy bit or simply a powder flow. The calving is often preceded by a loud cracking or booming sound before blocks break loose and crash into the water. The entry of the ice into the water causes large, and often hazardous wakes.

Click on the pictures to enlarge.

The spotted underbelly, throat, shoulders and sides give the earless leopard seal its name. While zodiac cruising in the Antarctic, it is not unusual to find a solitary leopard seal peacefully sunning and snoozing atop a bergy bit.

Leopard seals have long bodies (10 to 11.5 feet) and elongated heads. They are insulated from frigid waters by a thick layer of fat known as blubber.

The large and muscular leopard seal is the second largest seal in Antarctica and a primary predator. Near an ice shelf, the leopard seal waits just below the surface for a penguin to enter the waters. Grabbing their prey, they bring the penguin to the surface and shake it so severely to turn inside out making it convenient to eat.

Penguins are a small portion of their diet. They also prey on fish, krill and small seal pups. Even though their face appears to have a contented smile, they have a reputation for violence and aggressiveness. Killer whales are probably their only natural enemy.

Though the leopard seal is known for its coat, it has not been commercially hunted like its fur seal relatives.

In 1775, Captain James Cook visited the island of South Georgia and reported that “there are great many seals present.” During the 1700′s and 1800′s, the Antarctic Fur Seal was heavily hunted until nearly extinct. It was this quest for seal pelts that led to much of the early exploration of Antarctica and the Southern Ocean.

Fur seals belong to the group known as the Otarid or “eared” seals. This group contains fur seals and sea-lions that have a visible ear flap. They have a short, broad snout, long whiskers and waterproof fur on their bodies.

Another remarkable trait of the fur seal is that their hind flippers can be used facing forward or backwards. While they are able to propel themselves efficiently in the sea, they are also able to walk and run on land. Their usual food supply is krill, of which each Antarctic fur seal eats about a ton in a year. They also prey on fish and squid.

By 1822 the seal was regarded as commercially extinct with only a small population existing on Bird Island in South Georgia. The species is now protected by the Convention for the Conservation of Antarctic Seals in waters south of 60° S and its population is expanding.

Plancius

The Plancius was built in 1976 as an oceanographic research vessel for the Royal Dutch Navy. June 2004 the ship was purchased by Oceanwide Expeditions and completely rebuilt in 2009 . Its voyages in the Arctic and Antarctic regions are primarily defined as an exploratory educational travel program, spending as much time ashore as possible.

Plancius was built for ice conditions with a strengthened bow and stern. The hull is thicker and the whole construction on the waterline of the vessel is reinforced by using extra frames. As we plowed through brash ice and bergy bits, we were surprised to notice a few streaks of red on the ice bits scraped off the lower portion of the ship. Just so happened I had the camera ready. Proof!

The weather was typical Antarctica – some sun, some rain, some snow, some sleet and lots of clouds. It was the winter we did not experience in New England this year. However, no matter the conditions we had each day filled with adventures — hiking, snowshoeing, kayaking and zodiac riding. Other explorers enjoyed mountaineering, dry-suit scuba diving and camping.

Chinstrap Penguin

Chinstrap penguins have blue-black heads and backs with white cheeks. A thin black line – the chinstrap – crosses the chin and runs under the eye to join the nape. Their cruising speed is 3 mph, and they dine on krill taken in during their dive.

They are mini-mountaineers, choosing rocky and ice-free slopes. They are frequently found in groups with Gentoo and Adelies. Their nest is an unlined flat saucer of small stones, sometimes decorated with a few bones or feathers. It is most carefully guarded, since neighbors will steal stones if given the least chance.

Adelie Penguin

Along with the Emperor penguin, the Adelie is the only other truly Antarctic penguin. Its body and head are blue-black and the bill is dark reddish with a black tip. Their eyes are ringed in white.

Adelies walk quite well on ice and toboggan on snow. At sea it cruises at 4.5 mph. Their nest is also composed of small pebbles in a shallow depression, gathered by stealth and thievery. It is jealously guarded because it is vital that the eggs are raised above the melt water.

Adelies are the most abundant of all penguins. The total population is estimated in the region of two and a half million pairs. Adverse weather conditions are their worst enemy.

Penguins, scattered about the shore area, on the rocks, in the water, up the hillsides, are the true locals in Antarctica. They were our favorite photographic subject. You got to love their antics!

There are 17 species of penguins worldwide and most of them live in the southern hemisphere, except the Galapagos penguin. Some live in the Antarctic, such as the Gentoos. Others find home in South America, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand.

Why no wild penguins in the northern hemisphere? That is because penguins do not survive in the warmer sea water.The Galapagos penguins tolerate the waters near the equator due to the Humboldt Current that swings around the islands bringing cold water from Antarctic.

Early explorers thought penguins were a fish specie. However, we know that they are truly from the bird class. They are built to fly underwater with great skill. Their wings are paddles acting as powerful propulsion unit. Some penguins walk, some progress by jumps, some by tobogganing over ice and snow. Some can climb steep cliff faces, some leap like salmon in order to land on ice floes. On land they walk upright with a rolling gait. In the water they travel fast by porpoising and diving in pursuit of squids, shrimps and fish.

You may recall that we practiced our double kayaking at Quake Lake in West Yellowstone this past summer. Well, now we got our chance to test our proficiency. First we had to don our long underwear, insulated socks and toe warmers. Then we slipped into a wetsuit, neoprene booties and helmet. (Did I say slip? It was more like tug and squirm!)

Finally we topped this outfit with fleece, waterproof pants and jacket, life jacket and kayaking gloves. Now we are ready to work our way to the departure area to board the zodiacs. Since the ship is anchored in the bay, the zodiacs, dragging the kayaks, take us closer to shore and hopefully calmer waters to embark on our adventure.

The first thing that tripped us up was putting on the spray skirt. We had no practice with this maneuver made more difficult as we stood in the zodiac. Ah… which side is the front?

Next was to line up the kayak along side the zodiac so that we could slip over the side and land (plop) into the seat. Not an easy feat considering the choppiness of the water and our awkward movements.With the help of our kind friends, we got settled. Paddles in hand and a slight push off, we are on our way. Whew!!!

It didn’t take long to synchronize our strokes and settle in to an enjoyable experience. Spotting penguins on the shore, we headed in that direction for quick picture taking. We also encountered a leopard seal but our guide was more interested in getting us into a large circled area so the Kodak moment slipped past. However, later we spotted the seal as he lounged upon a bergy bit.

This was truly an experience of a lifetime. Gliding close to the water and paddling around icebergs was a highlight of the trip. Yet, many more moments to come.

Passenger Tracking Board

With 99 passengers coming and going in zodiacs, someone has to keep track of them all. The Passenger Tracking Board was the answer. Each passenger received a card (about the size of a credit card) displaying the room number with an letter representing the specific passenger in that room. (Rooms were double, triple and quadruple).

The cards were red on one side, green on the other. Every time you headed to the zodiac stairway, you turned your card to red signifying you left the ship. Upon return, you turned the card to green.

Did we always remember to turn our card? Well… we forgot just once! The first kayaking trip, Patty and I all bundled in our waterproof gear, sat comfortably in the zodiac until the driver asked us if we turned our cards. It was a mad dash up the stairway to the Tracking Board. We missed that zodiac and had to wait for the next one. You can be sure we didn’t forget again.

While visiting Port Lockroy and hiking at Jougla Point we encountered the curious gentoo penguins. These penguins are fairly small and their distinguishing feature is the stiff tail feathers that stick out behind them as they walk or cocked upward when in the water.  Their black heads are topped eye to eye with a slim white bonnet and they sport a bright orange bill.

Parents share in the incubation period of 31-39 days. The chicks are fed undigested shrimps and small fish by regurgitation. The adolescent penguins still had splotches of down that needs to be shed as feathers grow before they can get into the water.

Experts have determined that the total population of gentoos is somewhere between 300,000 and 350,000 pairs. On land their main predator is the Antarctic skuas. At sea the danger comes from leopard seals.

A baby penguin nestled into its parent

Port Lockroy

Our first full day in Antarctica began overcast, but it didn’t stop us from enjoying the short ride in the zodiac in order to take our first steps on solid ground!

Postcard mailed here will probably arrive around Christmas

The anchor was lowered in a bay near Port Lockroy, an historic hut built in 1944 and restored to its original condition in 1996. Several huts throughout Antarctica are symbols of the endurance of the earliest explorers. These huts are amongst the oldest remnants of human habitation in Antarctica.

Tinned Provisions

During the summer months Port Lockroy is open to visitors as a museum, post office and shop. The United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust maintains and preserves this historic heritage.

Bunk Room

There is no more beautiful time of the day to capture clouds reflecting the sun than early morning. The light is perfect for appreciation of the beauty of this stark wilderness.

99.6% of Antarctica is covered in snow and ice. Learning the how-to of Antarctica photography was the topic of many of our classes on board the ship. The challenge was to shoot the snow-capped landscape using the exquisite lighting at sunrise.

With the mountains as obstacles to the flow of winds, there is a strong turbulence and the uplift producing a variety of cloud formations. Antarctica is the windiest continent giving ample opportunity for photography as the clouds go scurrying past. It is imperative to take several shots to capture the perfect lighting. Thus, 1200 pictures need to be pared down to a reasonable number. Maybe, 800?

Smith Island - part of the South Shetland Island Chain

We finally arrived into Antarctic territory. From the tortuous waters of the Drake Passage we begin our southward journey between Smith and Snow Islands – part of the South Shetland Island chain. What a beautiful sight as the sun begins to set behind the snow covered mountain. We slept better tonight as we travel into the sheltered waters of the Gerlache Strait.

The Belgian Antarctic Expedition, under Lt. Adrien de Gerlache, explored the strait in January/February 1898, naming this body of water after his expedition ship Belgica.  Our photography guide, Laurnet Dick, duplicated Gerlache’s expedition and shared his tips for capturing Antarctic moments. We had so much to learn during the photography classes!

Brash Ice and Bergy Bits

We continued through the Strait into the Neumeyer Channel where we encountered ice-clogged waters and humpback whales. An accumulation of floating ice fragments is called brash ice. Bergy bits are larger pieces of floating ice and quite frequently we noticed seals taking a siesta on these smaller ice pieces. Our ice-strengthened ship, Plancius had no problem plowing through these channels.

Humpback whales have a small dorsal fin located on the raised hump back with a series of smaller bumps leading to the tail. Their head, lower jaws and chin are covered with fleshy knobs – tuberosities. The underside of the tail fluke is unique to the individual whale. This has made it possible for a catalog of named individuals to be established.

Humpback Whale

The Antarctic herds feed on Krill-rich coastal waters during the summer months (December-March) then move northward to winter off the coasts of America, South Africa, western Australia and New Zealand. Humpbacks travel mostly in small groups. Their main enemy is the killer whale.

Drake Passage

Yes, the Drake Passage lived up to its infamous reputation, displaying the roughest seas in the world. There is no significant land anywhere around the world at this latitude to slow the gale-forced winds or impede the currents that carry a huge volume of water through the Passage and around Antarctica.

We rocked and rolled for two days making everything difficult. Walking was only accomplished with both hands on the railings, bouncing from one side to the other and timing the footfall with the uphill and downhill rolls. But, really we did very little walking. And, attempting the stairway was a nightmare as you couldn’t really tell when your foot would land on the next step. Best to hold on for dear life or crawl!

Sleeping was turbulent to say the least. Now we know why the padded headboards and extra sidings. Back and forth, back and forth, up and down, back and forth, side to side, back and forth…  Just when we thought it was over, the ship caught another wave to start the round-about motion again.

Eating was nonexistent for a while until the Dramamine kicked into action, but then those little pills also made us sleepy. We were destined to spend the time in bed. Even when we made it to the dining room, the waves were literally washing over the windows. That was enough to spoil the appetite right away.

Oh, and “hugging the toilet” has a new meaning as we took turns slipping and sliding across the bathroom floor. As we learned, socks have no traction. Doctor Eric made a housecall and doled out more meds. (Actually, suppositories for Patty because they work faster than those other little pills she brought along.)

These two days were an adventure, an adventure best spent flat on our backs. However, the captain informed us that it was pretty much a normal crossing. Hum…  I don’t believe him. There was nothing normal about the way we were feeling and we were not alone in this adventure. Most of the passengers had some ill effects and even some of the guides were under the weather. Sort of makes you feel better knowing others share in the discomfort. Misery loves company, for sure.

Stay tuned…  Land was finally spotted.