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Explore… Experience… Enrich your life! |
5. Get your heart broken: No one goes looking for heartbreak, but emotional pain is an inevitable part of life and often a prerequisite for developing compassion and empathy, and for recognizing and appreciating true love when you find it.
Check. Who hasn’t experienced heartbreak in one form or another? You can’t go through life and give from your heart without shedding a few tears along the way. Enough said!
4. Drive coast to coast: At least once in your life, take the ultimate road trip. Drive all the way across the country and return by a different route. The scenery, and the experience, will be unforgettable.
Okay, caught me. Haven’t done that, YET! There was a time when we had one son living near Seattle and one son living in Florida. It was my dream to RV across the states for a couple of years, see the sights along the way and create a treasure of experiences and memories. As I said, “It was my dream.” But, not my husband’s dream. So it never happened.
BUT, who knows, maybe someday I’ll do it — me and my dog!
3. Buy a home: Who doesn’t dream of owning their own home? The recession and widespread foreclosures over the past few years may have tarnished the dream a bit, but it’s still alive and well for most people. Renting may offer more flexibility and variety, but there’s nothing quite like having a place of your own.
Check. Back in 1970, we purchased our first and only home. With all the remodeling projects and additions we are living quite comfortably albeit with a lot more space than we really need. It is time to consider downsizing, but with today’s housing market, that is easier said than done. But, something to start thinking about.
2. Live in a foreign country: Immerse yourself in different culture by taking up residence in another country for as long as your savings and the rest of your life plan will allow. Most countries will issue 60- or 90-day visas on request, and many cities offer short-term rentals at rates that beat vacation prices. There is a world of difference between being a tourist and being an expat. Go and find out.
Check! I have been a traveler starting back in the early days of my life when my parents bought a trailer, hooked it to the back of the car and headed off to Ohio, Florida and other interesting places. So you can say the traveling bug is a part of my genes.
At the early age of 21, I was selected to be a youth ambassador to Italy for seven months living with host families, immersed in the culture, and learning what it was like to be an American in a foreign country. I’ll never forget the day I returned to the USA and sailed past the Statute of Liberty. I rejoiced being back on home turf where freedom from persecution is a birth right.
Over the past several years, my sister and I have traveled to many different countries and enjoyed the immense contact with the people and culture. Check out Blast from the Past to see the wonderful experiences we have enjoyed. Wherever we go, whatever we do, it is an adventure.
Have you had the opportunity to live in a foreign country? Leave a comment…
Just recently I read an article about 20 things everyone should do at least once. So I decided to check it out and see just how many of those 20 things I have already accomplished, and would I be willing (at my age) to try to do more of them.
So here goes. Every day for the next 20 days I will review each item and give my interpretation. Please feel free to leave your comments and let us all know just how you are doing with your bucket lists.
1. Own Your Own Business: Find out if you have what it takes to be your own boss. Whether you’re founding the world’s next mega-corporation, opening the shop around the corner or just freelancing from your home office, you deserve to experience the freedom and frustration of working for yourself.
Check! Yup, I have owned my own business and still own it. OrganizingResources.com. I started my professional organizing business in 1994 and shortly thereafter, founded the Connecticut Informal Group of Professional Organizers which later became the Connecticut Chapter of the National Association of Professional Organizers (www.NAPOCT.com). I am still serving on the Board of Directors and as much as I give back, I receive even more from my colleagues and friends.
What I found out: Yes, I like being my own boss and experiencing the freedom and frustration of working for myself. Has it been easy? Nope, but challenging. I learned that I have to be super organized myself in order to have the time, money and energy to promote and grow my business.
Now that I am on the tail end of my business life, I mostly work with individual seeking time management skills through MSOutlook and its integrated components. I also do considerable mentoring of new organizers who want to learn about the business of running a business and setting an equitable fee structure. If you are not in business to make money, then why are you doing it?
Chime in and leave a comment about how you have started and grown your business.
While traveling the use of multipurpose items saves space, time and money.
Consider creamy lip liners as more than just lining your lips. It can also be your lipstick and blush when you are on the road.
Carabiner clips are a favorite inexpensive travel tool available at home improvement or hardware stores. These dandy hooks provide a sturdy solution for hanging items on the exterior of your travel backpack or bag – water bottles, coffee mugs with handles, hats, collapsible blanket, pillow or jacket, hiking boots, travel size tubes of sunblock or sanitizer, etc.
Use these clips for keys on the inside of your bag so they don’t get lost at the bottom of your pack or to secure items that have a tendency to shift around in your pack. Small carabiner clips can be an emergency zipper pull or to lock a zipper to discourage pickpocket access.
Let me know what other ways you use multipurpose clips.
You can continue to see pictures and journal of the Panama Canal trip on “Blast From the Past” page. I will be updating it daily. Enjoy!
Panama Canal Mules
All vessels are guided though the lock chambers by electric locomotives, known as mules, named after the animals traditionally used to pull barges. Vessels, large and small, must be able to move forward under their own power so these mules are simply used to eliminate the side-to-side motion to prevent hitting the walls within the narrow chambers.
A ship approaches the locks slowly and moves forward along the guide wall, which is an extension of the center wall of the locks. Cables are attached between the mules and the ship. There are a total of eight mules, two at the bow on each side and two at the stern on each side, allowing for precise control of the ship. These cables are monitored by the four Pilots which boarded the ship in the harbor before entering the canal.
The mules run by electric power on tracks. Each mule has a powerful winch, operated by the driver, used to take two cables in or pay them out to keep the ship centered in the lock and while moving from chamber to chamber. With the large vessels and very little space on each side of a ship, considerable skill is required on the part of the operators.
Smaller vessels, such as small tour boats and private yachts, tether to each other. The transit between chambers is handled manually.
Entering the first set of locks
Around 7:30 a.m. our large cruise ship entered the first set of locks, Gatun Locks on the Atlantic side, with a narrow 12 inches to spare on each side as well as the front and back.
Panamanian Pilot guides the mules
Four Panamanian Pilots boarded our ship before we entered the canal entrance. It is their job to guide the eight mules and tethered lines that hold the ship steady to avoid bumping into the sides of the locks.
There is a maximum size ship that can enter the locks. This size is know as Panamax which has been in effect since the opening of the canal in 1914. The allowable size is limited by the width and length of the lock chambers, by the depth of the water in the canal and by the height of the Bridge of the Americas. The Holland American Zuiderdam is the largest ship possible to utilize the existing locks. Fortunately, another set of locks is under construction that will be 60% wider and 40% longer than the existing ones, accommodating the larger vessels, known as Post-Panamax. It is estimated that these new locks will become operational in 2015.
Each door weighs 750 tons
There are 12 pairs of locks in the canal – six on the Atlantic side (Gatun Locks which is a 3-step lock system) and six on the Pacific side (Miraflores a 2-step system and a single step at Pedro Miguel). The locks fills with 52 million gallons of water to accommodate the nearly 15,000 ships that cross the canal each year.
The movable hinged-designed lock doors (gates), weigh 750 tons each, are a massive concrete construction required to hold back a considerable weight of water. They range from 47 to 82 ft high and 7 ft thick. The hinges alone weight 16.7 tons (36,800 lbs). The doors can only be opened when the water level on both sides is equal.
Next up… Mules
Our day began at 5:00 with the alarm clock buzzing. Time to get up, grab a quick bite to eat and head to the front of the ship. Throughout the night we had been traveling west through the Caribbean Sea towards the entrance to the Panama Canal. It is still quite dark outside, yet we can see many ships lined up waiting for their turn. All ships travel into the canal both on the Atlantic side and Pacific side in the early morning hours. During the daylight hours ships meet and pass each other in Gatun Lake as the canals are not wide enough for safe passing. Then in the evening hours, ships travel through the opposite set of locks to exit.
Original canal opening dredged by the French
Off to the right side of our ship we caught a glimpse of the original canal the French started dredging which shows their lack of foresight into the size of ships that would eventually traverse the Panama Isthmus. Even today, new locks are being built to accommodate the larger ships.
The Panama Canal is a lake-and-lock type canal. On the Atlantic side there is one set of locks with three chambers elevating the ship 85 feet above sea level and into Gatun Lake. And, consequently on the Pacific side there are two sets of locks – one with one chamber and the other with two chambers lowering the ship back down to sea level.
We slowly make our progress to the first set of locks – Gatun Locks.
Early European colonists of Central America realized that the narrow land bridge (The Isthmus of Panama) offered a unique opportunity to create a water passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in order to avoid the treacherous travels around Cape Horn, South America. This passage would be nearly 8,000 miles shorter, a huge savings in fuel and time.
First the Spanish government authorized a survey of the area, but the project stalled for many years.
Then the French inspired to tackle the job. However, difficulties arose. The mountainous spine of Central America, raging rivers, floods, mudslides, tropical disease and lack of engineering expertise created insurmountable obstacles and put a halt to their efforts.
In 1904, the United States took over and 10 years later the canal was opened. It was a technological marvel and an important strategic and economic asset to the United States. This new transit revolutionized world shipping patterns.
Today, the canal is under the Panama Canal Authority.
I just read an article that stated, “If you want to be happier, spend money on experiences.”
I guess my traveling adds up to a whole lot of happiness.
What have you done for happiness?
Moist Towelettes: Not just for babies!
Travel Mug: Water bottles are great, but a travel mug is more versatile. 
Power Strip
There seems to be an outlet shortage at the airport, in the hotel room or on a cruise ship. So pack your own. A multi-socket power strip helps share the juice from a single outlet.
How many times have you forgotten your charging iPod in your hotel room? By plugging all of your electronics into the same place, you’ll be less likely to leave one behind.
While traveling in foreign countries, you’ll need to use an adapter and a converter.
ENJOY A MINI SPA FROM YOUR SEAT
Long flights tend to dry out skin and sinuses, so pack a rolled-up washcloth in a zip-lock bag. During the flight, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot water. Dip the washcloth into the cup and place it over your face. Breathing in the steam helps sinuses, and the warm, damp cloth hydrates your skin.
AVOID MOTION SICKNESS
Besides being a tasty treat, candied ginger is a preventative or remedy for motion sickness. Carry a small supply in a resealable plastic bag, whether we’re on the road, in an airplane, or at sea.
KEEP CHEWING
If you suffer from painful clogged ears while flying, especially on take off and landings, bring along an apple or two. The chewing and swallowing mechanism will keep your ears in good shape.
Gatun Lake, created in 1913 by the damming of the Chagres River, provides a water passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, permitting ship transit in both directions. At the time it was formed, Gatun Lake was the largest man-made lake in the world.
The Panama Canal is a lake-and-lock type canal connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Oceans through the Isthmus of Panama, in Central America. Construction began in 1881 and was completed in 1914. Here are some fun facts:
January has always been the time the sisters take off to warmer climates. However, last year we deviated from our main intentions and headed to the coldest, windiest, highest continent (Antarctica). So this year, we are back to a warm adventure. We are heading south to Florida, hop on a cruise ship heading even farther south into the Panama Canal. Both of us have been studying about the construction of this famous channel. So let us share a bit with you now.
In 2006 a new plan was established to create a third lane of locks that will double the capacity of the canals to allow more transits and bigger ships. Work began 2007 and estimated to be completed for the 100th Anniversary in 2014.
This is the time of year when we slow down a bit, eat a little too much and reminisce the moments of thankfulness over the past year. My list of blessings is huge; it starts with my loved ones, my dear friends and colleagues, and the joys of my life. My list continues on to my travels and those I have traveled with. Why don’t you make a list of all the treasures and moments that add joy to your life, all the experiences that have broadened your horizon, and all the laughter you have shared with loved ones? How can we not be thankful!
I have been blessed this year with opportunities far exceeding my expectations and I am filled with thankfulness. I have experienced a world of beauty, joy, serenity, and laughter. My travels this past year have taken me to the southernmost tip of South America to experience the quaintness of Argentina hospitality. Then I headed off to Antarctica to explore the beauty of the frozen continent and the antics of penguins. In September I went to the northernmost point of Alaska to watch the playfulness of the polar bears in the Arctic Ocean. I am thankful for these opportunities and for the travel companions that added to the joy and laughter along the way.
My thankfulness spreads to the opportunity to share my photos with you, my readers. Thank you for being a part of this journey and enjoy the playfulness of the polar bears and penguins living on opposite ends of the earth. 
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! Judith Ann Kirk
Unfortunately moose sightings were difficult due to the lateness of the season. However, with sharp eyes, a female moose was spotted munching on the foliage while a male moose lingered near by.
Suddenly, the Mrs. took off across the road with Mr. following close behind.
The following day we spotted two more walking through the river but never got a chance to photograph them. Oh, well… Happy to catch even a quick glimpse.
Moose typically inhabit boreal and mixed deciduous forests of the Northern Hemisphere in temperate to subarctic climates. They used to have a much wider range but hunting and other human activities greatly reduced it over the years. Moose have been re-introduced to some of their former habitats.
Unlike most other deer species, moose are solitary animals and do not form herds. The most common moose predators are wolves, bears and humans.
Picture courtesy of Avi Aiyar
The muskox, an Arctic mammal is noted for its thick wooly coat. The males emit a strong odor, from which its name derives. This musky odor is used to attract females during mating season.
The Alaskan muskox population was wiped out in the late 19th or early 20th century. Their depletion has been attributed to excessive hunting. The United States Fish and Wildlife Service reintroduced muskox onto Nunivak Island in 1935. Population recovery has taken place following the enforcement of hunting regulations.
During the summer months when food is plentiful, muskoxen live in wet areas along the river valleys. They move to higher elevations in the winter to avoid the deep snow that requires expended energy to reach forage. Primarily predators are Arctic wolves.
The Great Gray Owl is commonly found in the Boreal Forest. As we were driving south on the Dalton Highway, we suddenly caught a glimpse of this massive bird flying low to the ground. It is dark grey overall interspersed with bars and flecks of light grey and white. The plumage is quite fluffy and dense designed to maintain body temperature during the cold Arctic winters. With long wings and tail feathers, this owl is large compared to other owls. The size of the head and the prominent facial disk make the yellow eyes appear small. A noticeable white strip is under the facial disk, broken by a black smudge. The feet are heavily feathered and remain hidden from view when perched.
Double click on picture to enlarge.
Dall Sheep, named after William Healey Dall (1845–1927), an American naturalist, is native to northwestern North America. They are found in relatively dry open alpine ridges, meadows and steep slopes with extremely rugged ground in the immediate vicinity which allows escape from predators that cannot travel quickly through such terrain. The primary predators are wolves, coyotes, black bears and grizzly bears. Golden eagles are predators of the young.
Both rams (males) and ewes (females) have horns which continue to grow throughout the animals’ lives, yet slows somewhat during the winter months. Horns are different from antlers because horns are a slow-growing, permanent bone. The males have thick curling horns. We were disappointed not to get a glimpse of the rams during our travel on the Dalton Highway and hiking in Brooks Range. The males live in bands which seldom associate with female groups except during the mating season in late November and early December. Lambs are born in May.
As we headed south on the Dalton Highway and just before climbing Atigun Pass, we came across a group of females and lambs digging in the stony slopes. The females have shorter, more slender, slightly curved horns.
Caribou herd on the Arctic tundra
Caribou are well adapted to living on the Arctic tundra. Their large, concave hoofs support them in deep snow in the winter and marshy tundra in the summer. They also function as paddles when they swim. The Alaskan caribou is clove-brown with a white neck and hindquarters. Its coat is darker in the summer and lighter in the winter.
The caribou is a large, stout animal and a member of the deer family, yet unlike deer, both the male and female have antlers. The antlers of the male are long, branched and massive, while the antlers of the female are much shorter, slender and irregular. Sometimes they are completely missing.
Brown fur with white neck and hindquarters
According to some experts, only one herd lost its calving grounds when the Alaskan oil pipeline was built. They seem to have migrated elsewhere.
The Arctic Caribou is not endangered, thanks to its ability to tolerate and adapt to harsh climates.
Arctic Fox searching for food just outside Deadhorse, Alaska
The arctic fox is native to Arctic regions of the Northern Hemisphere and is common throughout the Arctic tundra. With a deep, thick fur coat and a good supply of body fat, the arctic fox adapts well to the extreme cold. Its fur changes color with the seasons. In the winter it is white to blend in with snow, while in the summer it is brown.
Hey, are you looking at me?
After breakfast, after lunch and right after dinner, we again headed to Robert Thompson’s small boat to watch the polar bears. We stayed in a shallow cove area to observe and photograph the playfulness of several bears on land and in the water. It was a privilege to be so close yet not disturb their playground activity.
Good morning, Polar Bear Family!
Polar bear viewing and safety is taken seriously in Kaktovik. Our first evening we gathered in the dining area to greet four volunteer high school students who had been selected as Kaktovik Youth Ambassadors to discuss safety around polar bears. These delightful students also serve as role models for their peers and foster understanding of their community.
Tourism to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, specifically Barter Island is slowly increasing. Small groups are passing through Kaktovik for wildlife viewing during the whale hunting season when polar bears are prevalent. Very few residents are taking advantage of the potential for tourism dollars.
Robert Thompson and his six passenger boat
However, one individual is beginning to make a difference. Local guide, Robert Thompson greeted us at our lodging shortly after breakfast to give us a guided tour of Kaktovik. Then we head to the shoreline for a briefing of polar bear viewing from his little boat where we will spend the day viewing polar bears on land and swimming.
As we slowly meandered the coastline, we quietly watch several groups of polar bears still sleeping while a few others were already romping around the shoreline looking for objects to play with.
Oh, what a big yawn!
Playful Polar Bear pups
Momma and her cubs
Sunset over the Arctic Ocean
As the sun slowly lowered in the western sky, the polar bears took on a golden glow. We were mesmerized by its effect. The entire area took on a magical atmosphere which lasted for over an hour.
Kaktovik Airport Terminal/Hanger glowing in the sunset
Scrappy bears at bone pile
The bone pile captures the sunset rays
Bone pile feast
Sunset – polar bear walking around the whale bones
Our first evening in Kaktovik was a trip to the ‘bone pile’ which is basically the dump for the unusable portions of the Native-caught bowhead whales. Just prior to our arrival in Kaktovik, a whale was harvested providing plenty of munching for the bears. Whale remains this year attracted up to 80 bears a day to the village—a record, according to the Alaska Dispatch news site.
Excerpt from the National Geographic website:
Having hunted whales annually for about 50 years in Kaktovik, Inupiat typically leave some meat specifically for the polar bears, according to the Alaska Dispatch’s Loren Holmes. The predators have learned to arrive at North Slope Eskimo communities just before the hunt and whet their appetites by gnawing last year’s whale bones, Holmes said.
As we comfortably sat inside the van, we were able to watch more bears walking along the spit of land to join their colleagues at the feast. Some bears quietly meandered along while others were a bit more threatening. It is a privilege to be able to watch these majestic animals in the wild without causing a disturbance or disruption to their activities.
Native Village of Kaktovik
Due to the isolation of Kaktovik, the village has maintained its Inupiat Eskimo traditions. Subsistence is highly dependent upon the hunting of caribou, bowhead whale, dall sheep, muskoxen and the fish of the region. A federally-recognized tribe is located in the community — the Native Village of Kaktovik.
A majority of the Kaktovik residents and their ancestors are the indigenous inhabitants of the region. Kaktovik Iñupiat Corporation owns approximately 92,000 acres of surface lands in and around the community.
Kaktovik Post Office where I mailed a postcard to the grandchildren. They actually received it before I got home!
All of the corporation’s land is within ANWR.
According to Alaska Division of Community and Regional Affairs, economic opportunities in Kaktovik are limited due to its location. Most employment is in education, the North Slope Borough, or city services. Part-time seasonal jobs, such as construction projects, provide income.
Kaktovik School for all 50-60 students
A sheltered bay for the fishing boats
A whaling boat ready for action
Kaktovik location – Red Dot
Kaktovik is located on the north shore of Barter Island on the Beaufort Sea coast and lies within the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of one square mile, of which 80% is land and 20% is water. Population is less than 300.
The climate of Kaktovik is arctic with temperatures ranging from -56 to 78°F. It is a very windy spot. Precipitation is light, averaging 5 inches per year and snowfall averaging 20 inches per year.
Kaktovik Baggage Claim Area
Our little airplane landed on a hard-packed gravel runway and slowly taxied to the hanger/terminal building. The luggage and incoming packages were quickly unloaded, placed into the school bus, vans and pick-up trucks to be whisked to town just down the roadway.
Kaktovik Airport in the background
The Marsh Creek Inn van was waiting to transport us and our luggage to our accommodations. We quickly located our rooms, unpacked belonging, had a bite to eat and began our exploration of the area.
Marsh Creek Inn – our Kaktovik accommodations
Kaktovik landscape behind our lodging
Flight over the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
We are on our way to Kaktovik flying just above the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. It consists of 19,286,722 acres in the northeast corner of Alaska. It is the largest National Wildlife Refuge in the country.
The move to protect this corner of Alaska began in the early 1950s. But it wasn’t until 1960 that the region first became a federal protected area under President Dwight D. Eisenhower. In 1980, Congress passed the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act and mandated studies of the natural resources of this area, especially petroleum. The question of whether to drill for oil in this region has been an ongoing political controversy since 1977. The controversy surrounds the potential harm oil exploration might have upon the natural wildlife.
There are currently no roads within or leading into the refuge, however there are a few scattered Indian settlements. On the northern edge of the refuge is the Inupiat village of Kaktovik (population 247). The geographic location most remote from human trails, roads or settlements is found here in northeast Alaska.
Salt water marshes provide habitat for migratory waterbirds
Even though the landscape appears barren, the refuge supports a variety of plant and animal life. Along the northern coast, the barrier islands and salt marshes provide habitat for migratory waterbirds including sea ducks, geese, swans and shorebirds. The coastal lands and sea ice are used by caribou seeking relief from biting insects during summer, and by polar bears hunting seals and giving birth in snow dens during winter.
A flock of snow geese just below the plane
As we watch the landscape below, we catch our first glimpse of a flock of snow geese soaring beneath the plane. The name – Snow Geese – derives from the typically white plumage. They breed north of the timberline in Greenland, Canada, Alaska, and the northeastern tip of Siberia, and migrate to warmer parts of North America from southwestern British Columbia through parts of the United States and into Mexico.
As we approach the airport in Kaktovik, we catch our first sighting of polar bears running along the coastline. Hooray, we are here!
Deadhorse Welcome Sign
Deadhorse is the end of the Dalton Highway. The permanent population is listed between 25 and 50 residents; however, temporary residents, those employed by various vendor establishments, can range as high as 3,000 depending on the requirements at Prudhoe Bay.
The town of Deadhorse consists primarily for the workers and companies that operate or service the nearby Prudhoe Bay oil fields and the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System (TAPS), which brings oil from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez on the south-central Alaska coast. Facilities in Deadhorse are built entirely on man-made gravel pads and usually consist of pre-fabricated modules shipped to Deadhorse via hauling trucks, barges or air cargo.
After checking in for our 45-minute flight to Kaktovik, we stopped at the Prudhoe Bay General Store which sold just about anything you would need while living in this area – from clothing to auto parts. We purchased a few post cards and headed downstairs to the local post office to buy stamps. Of course, it was closed for the lunch hour. One thing not sold in the general stores was alcoholic beverages. In fact no alcohol is sold anywhere in Deadhorse, thus a humorous slogan for the town is “All that far and still no bar.”
Our 8-passenger airplane
Time to catch our flight to Kaktovik, our destination to see polar bears. Era Alaska began service in 1948 when the first commercial helicopter flew to Alaska to work on a mapping contract for the U.S. government. These small mapping routes grew over the years until scheduled passenger service took flight in May 1983 connecting some of the Last Frontier’s most famous destinations and those not-so-famous areas.
Luggage Transporter
It is time to board. Our luggage was transported to the plane in cardboard boxes that were required to be used “5 times.” For a Professional Organizer, this gave me a chuckle!
Cramped quarters of Era Airlines
All abroad – all eight of us. It is lift off to spectacular views of Deadhorse and the Prudhoe Bay area.
Deadhorse Airstrip
Prudhoe Bay Oil Rigs
Dalton Highway slices the foothills of Arctic Coastal Plains
Sunday, September 23, 2012: A very early departure (5:00 a.m.) from our accommodations in Wiseman to continue our journey north on the Dalton Highway. We are grateful that we experienced the Chandalar Shelf and Atigun Pass yesterday as we travel the same route in the dark this morning. As the sun slowly appears, we traverse the foothills away from the Brooks Range and onto the Arctic Coastal Plains, a very different terrain.
The Arctic Coastal Plains is one of the largest wetlands in North America. It is bound on the north and west by the Arctic Ocean and stretches east to the Yukon Territory. The plains is a poorly drained, treeless terrain dominated by moss and grass with numerous lakes. Because of the low angle of the sun, there is less solar heat and lower temperatures creating permanently frozen ground (permafrost).
Philip Smith Mountain Range
To the east lies the Philip Smith Mountain Range which climbs to 5,302 feet above sea level. The view to the north is tundra. The word “tundra” usually refers only to the areas where the subsoil is permafrost.
The area is very windy and desert-like with only 6–10 inches of rainfall per year. Although precipitation is light, evaporation is also relatively minimal. During the summer, the permafrost thaws just enough to let plants grow and reproduce. Yet with frozen ground below the surface, water cannot sink any lower forming the lakes and marshes found during the summer months, a habitat for breeding waterfowl.
Arctic Coastal Plains
We continue our drive north observing the stark landscape that surrounds us, yet barely understanding the vast importance of this dramatic terrain. This is a large area with relatively little human activity. Even though it is rich in natural resources, questions remain as to how much should we invade this territory and will our invasion affect the natural habitat?
A severe threat to the tundras, specifically to the permafrost, is global warming. The melting of the permafrost could radically change which species can survive there. Another major concern is that about one third of the world’s soil-bound carbon is in such tundra areas. When the permafrost melts, it releases carbon in the form of carbon dioxide and methane, both of which are greenhouse gases. Methane is produced when vegetation decays in lakes and wetlands. It is uncertain whether the impact of increased greenhouse gases from this source will be minimal or massive. What is certain is that nature produces its own global warming. Will human activity add even more of an effect and how will we minimize our impact?
Heading up to Atigun Pass
Next stop: Atigun Pass (Milepost 244)
After spending some time at Chandalar Shelf we continue on the Dalton Highway to the top of Atigun Pass, Alaska’s highest roadway summit at an elevation of 4739 feet and the Continental Divide – rivers south of here flow into the Pacific Ocean or Bering Sea while the rivers to the north flow into the Arctic Ocean.
A few words of caution
This is not a road for the faint of heart and last night’s snow and howling wind add to the adventure. It is slick and steep. The ascent is slow with the downward-bound trucks having the right of way. On this particular day, most of the big rigs put on chains and barely inch along.
At the top of Atigun Pass
Arriving at the top pull-off, we hop out of the car for picture taking. The view is spectacular with the Philip Smith Mountains to the east and the Endicotts to the west. We are surrounded by snow-covered mountains. It is not a real clear day, but the vista is breathtaking anyways.
View from the top of Atigun Pas
The snaking pipeline emerges and parallels the roadway for the next 1-1/2 miles
The Alaskan Pipeline is buried beneath the steep unpaved highway that snakes over the pass. There is 165 pipeline miles from Prudhoe Bay to the granite spires of Atigun Pass. To push the oil this far it takes three pump stations and almost two full days. At the top of the pass, the oil is still 600 miles from its destination. The pipeline emerges from the rock at the bottom of the hill to travel above ground for the next 1-1/2 miles of the Chandalar Shelf.
Heading back down the slippery, sloping highway.
Snowy Chandalar Shelf
Next stop: Chandalar Shelf (Milepost 237)
We make a slow, curvy ascent out of the valley on the edge of a mountain and into an opened plain called Chandalar Shelf. The area is completely surrounded by the Brooks Range. This shelf is wide, sloping gently up the hillsides and on into the craggy peaks capped with snow. For someone who loves mountain views, this area is awesome. Adding to the beauty is last night’s snow fall.
Low-growing blueberries
Today we will do a bit of hiking up a hillside to the west. We are walking in several inches of snow. The ground is uneven, a spongy tundra. Laurent gently pushes the snow aside and exposes low growing blueberry and cranberry bushes. The views from the top of the hillside are spectacular and I just want to sit and absorb the beauty.
Chandalar Shelf looking towards Atigun Pass
The hike back to the car was easy as we tobogganed our way down. Hot apple cider and hot chocolate was a wonderful treat from the back of our vehicle – which is getting muddier each day.
Tobogganing down the snow slope
Laurent, our guide prepares hot apple cider and hot chocolate after our hike
Saturday, September 22, 2012: Last Spruce Tree (Milepost 235)
Today’s adventure takes us away from Wiseman and back on the Dalton Highway heading north, the only US road that crosses the northernmost tree line.
The scenery is breathtaking as we travel between the Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve on our left and the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge on our right.
Here we see steep, rocky slopes and glacier-carved valleys. We stare out the car windows and just sigh a contented “Ah.” Words do not do justice to the beauty that surrounds us.
Just before we begin our ascent we come across a lone, bedraggled Black Spruce tree. The signs reads: 
“Farthest North Spruce Tree on the Alaskan Pipeline Do Not Cut.”
Sometime in the summer of 2004 vandals chipped away an expanse of bark around the tree. Shame on them for defacing a tourist attraction.
Black spruce are found in wet soils and bogs throughout most of Alaska. They have an irregular, conical crown, with short horizontal or dropping branches. It is merely a shrub at tree line.
After a hearty dinner on our first night in Wiseman, the discussion turned to cameras, photography and Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). Will tonight be the night? Clear skies – yes, maybe? “Be prepared,” was Laurent’s advise.
So prepared, we were.
The knock on the door came about 10:00 p.m. and we rushed down to the edge of the river. “Oh, look at the glow straight ahead!” we cheered in unison. As we stood and watched, the definite green glow began dancing across the sky in front of us, to the side and even behind us. Yes, tonight is the night! Those with better camera equipment got spectacular pictures, but my little camera captured a moment and I am happy. Words cannot express the inner joy from just standing next to a rushing river, in the middle of Alaska, on a cold clear night and watching the “Dance of the Spirits” as the Cree (Native North Americans) called this phenomena.
The Aurora Borealis (named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas) is a natural light display which occurs when highly charged electrons from solar storms interact with elements in the earth’s atmosphere. As the electrons enter the earth’s upper atmosphere, they collide with atoms of oxygen and nitrogen at altitudes from 20 to 200 miles above the earth’s surface.
An Aurora often displays magnetic field lines or curtain-like structures and can change within seconds or glow unchanging for hours, most often in fluorescent green. However, the color of the aurora depends on which atoms are struck and the altitude of the collision.
Yes, tonight was the night. Even though the Northern Lights are frequent, to be in the right spot at the right time is miraculous. I am privileged to have witnessed such an event!
Erika and Mandy pose in front of our delightful cabin
Wiseman lodging: Arctic Getaway with hosts Berni and Uta Hicker, longtime residents. “Tucked away in the scenic foothills of the Brooks Mountain Range, far above the Arctic Circle, we offer lodging for the vigorous adventurer or the traveler seeking a private hide away to relax.”
There are no restaurants and no stores in Wiseman, but our conscientious tour guide, Laurent Dick of WildAlaskaTravel.com was prepared. Our lodging consisted of two cabins – ladies in one, men in the other. How convenient that there were three energetic, lively and fun-loving ‘young-at-heart’ women and three gentlemen.
Laurent slaving over the hot stove
The cabins have kitchenettes and Laurent took on the job as chief cook. Tonight it is pasta and a huge salad augmented with red wine. What more could you ask for? (Well, a little less sausage, I’d say!)
Mandy cuts vegetables for the salad
Breakfast the next morning was served in the Hicker’s home, the 1910 gold rush dance hall. We feasted on fresh pancakes and eggs with lots of coffee. And, to make the stay even better, they offered wireless internet connection during the breakfast hours. We couldn’t resist plugging in and sending out messages and pictures.
Now a few words about our hosts, Bernie and Uta. They have two children, Julia and Leo. In this remote area their lifestyle includes hunting for meat, berry picking, gardening, woodcutting, home schooling, caring for their sled dogs and the many varied aspects involved in living a rural lifestyle. They have the capability to generate electricity. What an amazing loving-life family. We enjoyed our conversation with them during our brief visit.
Scrumptious lettuce in the garden
Fresh moose meat hanging to dry
Notice the old and the new
(Sign and Satellite dish)
Destination: Wiseman Alaska (Milepost 189)
Wiseman, a small community about 3 miles from the Dalton Highway in the Brooks Range, reported a population of 14 in the 2010 census. It consists of 78 square miles with an elevation of 1,181 feet.
The documentary, Gates of the Arctic: Alaska’s Brooks Range was filmed in 2007 with the help of a Wiseman hunter and trapper.
Wiseman Post Office
The log-built Wiseman post office opened in 1909 and subsequently closed in 1956. It has been sinking for the past century and is now a couple of feet below ground level.
A beautiful setting surrounded by the Brooks Range
In amongst the boreal forest and beautiful mountains rests a public telephone where Mandy was able to call her son in Hong Kong. Who would have thought this was possible?
“Hello operator!
Yes, I have a calling card.”
Wiseman Trading Company
Established in 1910
Red fox on the edge of Dalton Highway just north of Coldfoot
A short distance from Coldfoot Camp, we encountered the first wildlife sighting – a Red Fox.
The red fox is common in most of North America. It is usually recognized by its reddish coat, its white-tipped tail, and black “stockings,” although there are color variations. The outside of the ears may be black-tipped, while the inside is usually white. The white tip on the tail will distinguish this fox from other species.
Red fox on the run exposes the beautiful white-tipped tail
Coldfoot, Alaska Post Office
Opened Mon, Wed, Fri afternoons
Next stop: Coldfoot, Alaska (Milepost 175)
Time to stretch our legs at Coldfoot Camp. This is an interesting stop as we discover our first post office and public telephone north of Fairbanks, and the last gas station for 240 miles. This is where truckers find a cup of coffee and a rest break. Coldfoot Camp is open year-round and features a cafe, rustic overnight accommodations, fuel and tire repair.
Notice our vehicle is still a blue color in the front. Things will get a lot muddier as we travel north.
The Coldfoot area provides a variety of activities in this remote region of Alaska. In the summer, flight-seeing, hiking, rafting, fishing, and exploring area mining roads are some of the many activities guests can experience. The winter months bring world-class aurora viewing and opportunities for dog mushing excursions.
Accommodations – $220/night
Originally named Slate Creek, the settlement of Coldfoot began around 1898 when thousands of would-be prospectors flooded to the area in search of gold. The name was changed when the not-so-hearty souls got “cold feet” about wintering in the district and headed south.
At its peak population, Coldfoot had one gambling hall, two roadhouses, seven saloons and 10 “working girls” (many of the local creeks are named for these friendly women). Within a few years, the town boasted its own post office. Mail was delivered once a month from Fort Yukon, in the winter arriving by dogsled and in the summer arriving by foot. Around 1912 prospectors seeking richer gold areas relocated to Wiseman, 13 miles north – our destination.
Doesn’t look like the tourist have found this spot, yet!
One of the original buildings at Coldfoot Camp
Next stop: Arctic Circle (Milepost 115)
The Arctic Circle is one of the five major circles of latitude that mark maps of the Earth. In 2012, it is the parallel of latitude that runs 66° 33′ 44″ north of the Equator. North of this marking is known as the Arctic.
As a group, we stood here on Autumnal Equinox – September 21, 2012, the first day of Fall. The word ‘equinox’ comes from the Latin words for equal night. The fall and spring equinoxes are the only days of the year in which the Sun crosses the celestial equator.
The position of the Arctic Circle is not a fixed spot. It directly depends on the Earth’s axial tilt, which fluctuates within a margin of 2° over a 40,000 year period to tidal forces resulting from the orbit of the Moon. The Arctic Circle is currently drifting northwards at a speed of about 49 feet per year. Hum… I wonder if Alaska DOT continues to update and move this sign?
Avi conquers the world
(or at least Finger Rock)
Next stop: Finger Mountain (Milepost 98)
The Dalton Highway is a mecca for those wanting to discover and experience Alaska. There are several areas to stop and explore the wonders of the region, and we enjoyed the opportunity to stretch our legs again.
Laurent continues his Alaskan education on the half-mile interpretive walk.
Finger Mountain provides an excellent place to learn about the alpine tundra and the unique habitat of wildlife as well as take in the scenic views. The half-mile interpretive trail leads to the summit of Finger Rock.
This is not actually a mountain but a wide broad hill with an altitude of around 1312 feet. Granite protrusions dot the landscape. It is named for Finger Rock, a distinctive outcropping which marked a premier location for hunters to watch for game. Bush pilots also use the rock to guide their way home since the finger points directly to Fairbanks.
Alaska Tundra
Granite rock protrusions dot the landscape
Yukon River Crossing
Next stop: Yukon River (Milepost 56).
The Yukon River is a major watercourse of northwestern North America, beginning in British Columbia, Canada with the lower half running through Alaska and emptying into the Bering Sea. It is 1,980 miles long.
The longest river in Alaska and the Yukon Territory, it was one of the principal means of transportation during the 1896–1903 Klondike Gold Rush. A portion of the river in the Yukon is a national heritage river and part of the Klondike Gold Rush International Historical Park. Paddle-wheel riverboats continued to use the river until the 1950s.
We crossed the river on the E. L. Patton Yukon River Bridge, north of Fairbanks on the Dalton Highway. This girder bridge carries both the Dalton Highway and the Alaska Pipeline, connecting Fairbanks with Deadhorse near the Arctic Ocean and the Prudhoe Bay Oil Field.
E. L. Patton Yukon River Bridge
As part of construction of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System, a permanent crossing of the Yukon River became necessary to eliminate the need to construct an ice bridge to transport material across the river.
The bridge is supported by tiers anchored to bedrock beneath the river. It is 2,295 feet long and 30 feet wide. The driving surface is of timber construction supported by a steel deck attached to a pair of steel box girders. The wooden deck has been replaced in 1981, 1992, 1999 and 2007. At its highest point, the span rises approximately 200 feet above the river with its length changing by nearly 2 feet between the summer and winter months.
Upon completion in October 1975, the E. L. Patton Yukon River Bridge, named for the former president of the Alyeska Pipeline Service Company, became the first permanent bridge crossing of the Yukon River completed in Alaska and remains the only bridge crossing of the Yukon River in Alaska today.
Laurent Dick, our guide prepares the lunch fixing with the help of VJ
This was our lunch stop and photography moment as we marveled at the construction of the Alaska Pipeline on the edge of the bridge. Our guide, Laurent Dick, WildAlaskaTravel.com, spread the lunch fixing on a picnic table at the visitor’s center. With blue skies and white puffy clouds, we were happy to get out of the van, stretch our legs and partake of sustenance with warm apple cider or hot chocolate.
The Alaskan Pipeline, one of the world’s largest pipeline systems of 800 miles with a diameter of 48 inches, runs from Prudhoe Bay on the North Slope to Valdez, Alaska, the northernmost ice-free port in North America. It crosses three mountain ranges, the Brooks Range, Alaska Range and Chugach Range and over 500 rivers and streams. There are over 124,000 heat pipes along the pipeline that transfer ground heat into the air to ensure soil remains stable and able to support the pipeline.
Long, heated environmental, legal, and political debates followed the discovery of oil at Prudhoe Bay in 1968. However, it was the sharp rise in oil prices after the 1973 oil crisis that became the catalyst to build the pipeline. Construction began March 25, 1975. Special construction techniques had to be developed to cope with the extreme cold and frozen isolated terrain. More than half of the pipeline (420 miles) runs above ground with 78,000 vertical supports – an engineering decision due to Alaska’s prevalent permafrost terrain.
The pipeline project attracted tens of thousands of workers to Alaska, causing a boomtown atmosphere in Valdez, Fairbanks and Anchorage. The first barrel of oil traveled through the pipeline in June 20, 1977, and on August 1, 1977 the first tanker to carry crude oil left Valdez. The pipeline has conveyed more than 16 billion barrels of oil and loaded more than 19,000 tankers at the Valdez Marine Terminal. .
At peak flow in 1988, 11 pump stations helped to move 2.1 million barrels of oil a day. Output in 2011 averaged about 600,000 barrels a day, with four active pump stations remaining in the system. The Operations Control Center, located in Anchorage, monitors and controls pipeline and terminal operations 24/7 and controllers can stop pipeline flow within four minutes.
The visibility and long snaking pattern as it crosses Alaska’s remarkable terrain has made it one of the world’s most photographed pipelines.
What’s ahead? TransCanada and ExxonMobil began working together in 2009 to develop a system to connect Alaska’s vast North Slope natural gas resources to new markets and deliver a reliable and secure source of clean burning energy for decades to come. There will be years of environmental and legal discussions before we can even tap into this vast resource.